For many visitors to our area, a visit isn't complete without a hike through Swallow Falls State Park. This
257-acre park is one of the most beautiful places on earth. I have been there many times under many
conditions and the scenery never ceases to amaze me.
This awe-inspiring scenery is all about where Ancient Forest meets river. Unlike most areas of the
eastern United States this small tract of land escaped the logging that
occurred around the turn-of-the-century. Around 1900 many of trees covering the mountains had been
clear cut. Early loggers believed in a myth of 'super abundance' and they devastated the lands in Appalachia. The land was so
bare that flooding was an enormous problems in the eastern coastal cities. The runoff from the
mountains that could no longer hold back any water was extreme. The major eastern rivers flooded
severely every spring and cities at the mouths of these big rivers such as DC, Richmond, and Pittsburgh
suffered horrible floods.
Public concern for the management of the forest resource grew in the late 1800's. Gifford
Pinchot, "the
Father of American Forestry" and one of Theodore Roosevelt's chief advisors, promoted the concept of
wise use and sustained yield forests. In Maryland, John and Robert Garrett of
Baltimore offered 2,000 acres of woodland to the state in 1906, under the conditions that a
State forestry department be
organized to manage the land. The original gift is part of the Garrett and Potomac Forests.
Today Swallow Falls State Park is one of the last remaining examples of what the virgin forests where
like. Towering hemlocks as old as 400 years line the river banks in the park and
giant rhododendron cluster everywhere. Several trails wind through the park and offer views of 3 large waterfalls on the
Youghiogheny River (Youghiogheny ~ Shawnee word meaning River That Flows In Contrary
Direction)
and one small but very beautiful falls nestled in the forest along Tolliver Creek. All the water you see in
the creeks and rivers is flowing into the Gulf of Mexico via the Ohio River in Pittsburgh, not the
Chesapeake Bay.
Winter hiking is especially beautiful since the falls are often frozen and the snow adds to the beauty of
the forest. One of my favorite sites is the sunlit snow falling from the ancient trees. The snow sparkles
and glitters as it floats down and it truly is a fairy land type setting.
The best way to hike the park is to take the trail to Swallow Falls first. The park gets 180,000 visitors per
year so the trail system has been under some changes recently. Some sections have been re-routed to
give areas a rest from the trampling feet of happy hikers. The hemlock trees have fairly shallow roots so
the compaction of the ground from so many hikers is having some negative effects on the trees near the
trails. New trails have been developed to lessen this impact and plans are in the works to construct an
elevated pathway deck so visitors no longer compact the soil.
In winter you have to be careful because the trails get packed down and in some places can be very
slippery and even quite icy. If you stay in the fresh snow off to the side of the trail you can sometimes
gain a little traction. Just remember to go slow and walk sideways with the edges of your feet if you need
to dig in.
A short side hike from Swallow Falls will take you to a beautiful spot on one of the side creeks Tolliver
Creek. Here is a pretty falls surrounded by the ancient trees.
Tolliver Falls
Swallow Falls is a 32 foot slide falls and is a great place for a family photo. In the spring and summer
when the water level is right you can sometimes catch kayakers going over it in their boats.
Family Photo at Swallow Falls
The trail then can lead you to the highest waterfall in Maryland 53' Muddy Creek Falls. Just
downstream from Swallow Falls is the Swallow Tail Falls.
Swallow Tail
Falls
Along the trail to Muddy Creek look sharp for the hanging rock, a giant boulder balancing on what
appears to be tiny stones. You can walk in under the boulder through a little mini cave. Keep your eyes
peeled and you can see places where the trees are wrapping their roots
around the rocks trying to find soil. Their are really cool cliffs and rock overhangs and in winter big icicles. If you like photography you
will find lots of places to stop for picture taking.
Hanging Rock
After a little walking you come to Muddy Creek Falls. The creek gets its name from the tea colored water in the stream. This
tea colored water is caused by the decaying vegetation in the upland swamps in its headwaters. Muddy
Creek Falls can be quite amazing when frozen over, and is another great spot for pictures.
The hike from the bottom of the falls can be pretty challenging when the trail is icy, but the steps and
handrail make it possible with a little effort.
At the top of the falls hang a left and go read the sign about four famous visitors to the park in the early
1900's. These visitors were, Harvey Firestone, Henry Ford, Thomas Edison and conservationist John
Burroughs. This famous group camped at this spot at the top of the falls. From here it is a short walk
back to the parking lot. This hike is good for the whole family but the grandparents and toddlers may find
the trail in winter a little to slippery.
You can take a guided tour of the park with a Camp Earth guide. You will learn about park history, bears
and other information to make your winter hiking fun and safe. There are maps of the trails at the
trailhead and parking lot so you can do it on your own too. Have fun this winter, and get out in the snow
and enjoy it!
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